Fortunately, there are still quality wines to be found that won’t send you into sticker shock.  When an entry-level Burgundy or Bordeaux starts at $30 a bottle retail, it’s good to know that by shopping from the neighbors of great wine districts, or by choosing younger wines from the same pedigree, you can get the quality and character without the price tag.  By shopping wisely, you can keep yourself in good vin rouge for $10 a bottle, with a splurge up to $14-15 for those relaxing weekend evenings.

The first place you need to look is the southern Rhone Valley of France.  The Rhone gives us the famed wines of Hermitage, Crozes Hermitage, and Chateauneuf-du-Pape.  However, in a similar style at a fraction of the price are the wines from Costieres de Nimes at the very southern end of the valley.  Nimes wines use the same blends as more famous Rhone vintages – Syrah, Mourvedre, and Grenache.  The style is lightly oaked, easily drinkable, with firm tannins and black fruit flavor.   The Chateau de Nages pictured above smells of black cherry, vanilla, and licorice, and tastes of blueberries, black cherry, and mulberry with a bit of floral violets on the finish.  Color is deep purple and the body is on the full side of medium, with intense fruit flavors and good structure.

Nimes wines are enjoyable young, especially with an hour or two of decanting before serving.  They should age well for 4-5 years if they show firm tannic structure when young.  Southern Rhone wines, while generally more interesting than your average Cote du Rhones or Cote du Rhones Villages, are not in high demand.  This is a shame, but it’s also an opportunity to lay down some really nice wines for very little cash.

Another great place to go for really luxuriant European reds is Spain’s Rioja appelation.  There are four “grades” of these wines that you will find on the shelf, Rioja, Rioja Crianza, Rioja Reserva, and Rioja Gran Reserva.  Rioja, unqualified, is aged for a year before bottling, with at least some time in oak.  Crianza is aged for two years, at least one in oak.  Reserva is aged three years before bottling, with one in oak.  Gran Reserva wines get two years oak aging, three total.

You will pay $20-30 each for a Reserva or Gran Reserva.  However, Crianzas are rather cheaper.  Unqualified Riojas and Crianzas are typically within a dollar or two in price, and the extra aging prior to going into the bottle makes a big difference.  Gran Reservas are for those who like a lot of oak character, and Reservas are for those who want a slightly more refined wine that’s a little closer to being at its best drinking.  For pure value, the Crianza is where you want to go.

Riojas are primarily made from the Tempranillo grape, with some Garnacha (Grenache), Mazuelo, and Graciano.  The more expensive versions are 100% Tempranillo, or nearly so.  However, even if you splurge most still fall from $9-14 a bottle.  Riojas are velvety, with restrained grape and oak tannins, a big nose, and flavors of red fruit, earth, cedar, and tobacco.  They are very smooth, warm, decadent wines.  If you are not familiar with Spanish wines other than Madiera and sherry, you owe it to yourself to grab a few bottles of Rioja Crianza.  Lay a few down for 2-3 years, but drink them as you buy them, too.  A little decanter time before imbibing will open the aromas up wonderfully.

Is a Reserva that much better that you want to pay twice the price, on average?  Perhaps for a special meal, but as an everyday pour, the younger vintage gives you a good portion of the experience for less dough.  Plus, frugal doesn’t always have to mean sacrifice.

This Blanchet 2007 comes out of a small 8-acre winery in the heart of the Pouilly-Fumé region, and goes wonderfully with fish and seafood.  It would also complement summer salads with bitter greens and vinaigrette dressings, but not likely those with fruit.  I can also see this pairing well with pastas tossed with vegetables or seafood, dressed with olive oil.

Details:

Name: Gilles Blanchet 2007 Pouilly-Fumé
Type: White
Country: France
Region: Loire
Grapes: 100% Sauvignon Blanc
Price: $17

My score: 90 points (out of 100) – Intriguing, somewhat complex, makes me want more.

Notes:

Color: straw yellow

Nose: The first thing that hits me is the clean citrus smell.  Underneath the lemony fruitiness is a grassy note, almost asparagus-tips in its green-ness.  There’s a steely/flinty/smoky minerality that’s noticeable as the other aromas fade.  It’s not a lush aroma, but it’s clean and enticing.

First Taste: The initial impression I get is one of restrained fullness.  The primary flavors are tart apple, lemon zest, and tangerine rind.  The green component in the nose is manifesting itself here in combination with the citrus to give almost a lemongrass – or white tea with lemon – feel.

Second Taste: The primary fruits are still there and asserting themselves.  I like this – it shows that the cleanness and bright acidity leave my palate fresh, and the wine isn’t tiring out my sense of taste.  The body is good – a solid medium mouthfeel.  The fruit on the initial attack fades through the green components and a stony/flinty stage to a crisp acidity on the back end with the lingering impression of the citrus and apple.

Impressions: I definitely want to drink this again.  The central elements were all very consistent and well balanced, and every time I picked up the glass I noticed a slightly different nuance.  This wine held my interest, and asked me politely to pay attention to every sip.

Last time we had Riesling, it was a German vintage from the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer region.  Rieslings from Alsace, France are a different beast.  They retain the fruit, acidity, and floral nose of their German counterparts, but are fermented completely dry, or very nearly so.  The Jean Albrecht 2006 Reserve is a clean, crisp wine that is well suited to summer dining as well as the roasted, toasted flavors of fall.

This wine is as different from the Moselle variety as can be – bracing acidity, big, honeyed aromas, and moderately full body.  If you dislike the sweetness of the German types, Riesling from Alsace may very well be your thing.  They’re under-appreciated wines in the US and, even with the weak dollar, a good value for a wonderfully food-friendly wine.

Details:

Name: Jean Albrecht 2006 Reserve Riesling
Type: White
Country: France
Region: Alsace
Grapes: 100% Riesling
Price: $16

My score: 88 points (out of 100) – solid wine, interesting qualities.

Notes:

Color: greenish-gold

Nose: My initial impression is of clover or golden tupelo honey, canned pears in syrup, and granny smith apple.  The floral component comes through very strongly.  As I get accustomed to the most forward flavors, there are suggestions of ginger and a sweet botanical component.  Maybe mint, maybe licorice root.  A pleasant nose.

First Taste: I like it.  This wine has a good, solid body.  The acidity balances well with the mouth feel and very forward fall-fruit flavors.  The tartness is pleasant, not overwhelming, with lots of green apple flavor and some unripe pear.  Theresa mentions she doesn’t like the drier style as much, but goes back for seconds anyway.

Second Taste: More fall fruit.  I like that the acidity is balanced nicely with the barest hint of residual sugar.  I’m getting some dried apricot coming through.  The finish is moderate, with a transition from the initial fruitiness to honey flavors on the back end.  Leaves a clean, fresh palate.

Impressions: This is a very good food wine.  The acidity works well with meatier fishes (we had blackened rare tuna) and would probably stand up to roasted poultry.  I have a feeling this would be a great Thanksgiving wine – it holds its own against a lot of flavors.  The transition from the attack to the finish is a bit abrupt, with not much interest on the mid-palate.  However, this is a solid dry Riesling and a good sub-$20 pick.