Is that Chicken Thigh Worth $2.50?

Posted: Thursday, July 9th, 2009 by Rob

Springfield ChickensThese days, we’re constantly being admonished to eat better food. The environmentally conscious and the nutritionally aware communities are pushing their message like never before: our cheap, industrial food supply is probably not the best thing for us, dietary-wise. The problem is that most of us are used to our current supermarket prices, and small production organic or natural-method farms are justifiably charging a premium for their products.

Case in point – we love the folks at Springfield Farm. They’re a bio-conscious operation in northern Baltimore County that raises laying hens, roaster chickens, turkeys, hogs, and lambs on natural pasture.  You can see their laying hens in the photo above.  That little red building all the way in the background is the hen-house, and the food & water’s as far away from it as possible, so that the hens spend most of their time outside.  They’re exercised, in the open air, and free to forage for bugs and tasty plants.  They’ll strip most of the green vegetation off this section of pasture, and will be rotated onto pasture vacated by the sheep.

Springfield’s eggs are very reasonably priced – $3.75 for a dozen large, which compares well against the $3.49/dozen for “organic, cage-free” at the supermarket.  Here, though, you get to visit the hens laying your eggs, and can buy them before they ever hit a refrigerator.  They’re fresh, the pasturing produces eggs with brilliant orange-yellow yolks, and they’ve got a great rich flavor.  Win for everyone.  Springfield has almost 2500 layers in their flocks, and the operation has scaled well to offer an outstanding product at a reasonable price.

Now, we get into the pasture-raised meats.  Our cheap meat supply, based on subsidized soy and corn feed, is under scrutiny as a potential contributor to our unhealthy eating habits. We eat too much animal protein,  too few fresh vegetables and very few legumes, because we can afford to.  We spend approximately half of what people in the early part of the 20th century did for our food, and we eat probably twice as much meat as we should.

So, is it reasonable to pay premium prices for what we have taken for granted as a cheap everyday consumable?  If chicken parts are selling for $1.49 a pound at the local megamart, is it sane to pay three times that for a hormone- and antibiotic-free version, raised on pasture and eating a well-rounded diet?

Being that Springfield is a poultry farm that you can actually tour without a gas mask, and that the roaster flocks spend most of their time wandering about in the open air, there’s a case to be made that premium prices are worth it if only for reducing the amount of agri-industry we depend on for our daily sustenance.  However, these truly free-range birds have an extra benefit – they actually taste good.

Whereas the average supermarket bird is bland, with a mushy, cottony consistency to the cooked meat, a real free-range bird actually uses its muscles.  The result is firmer flesh that is simultaneously tender and juicy and provides some resistance to the tooth.  It has a coarser… meatier… texture that’s a pleasant surprise.  The flavor is more pronounced as well, in that while not being gamy, it actually tastes like something. While a standard bird generally needs an overnight brining to taste of anything, the free range chickens don’t need anything other than some basic seasoning.

Try this for a month, and see how it works for you.  Spend the same amount you would normally spend on meat, but buy better quality, non-industrially produced meats.  You’ll have less of it.  This affords you the second, fun part of the exercise where you supplement this smaller quantity of animal protein with legumes, pulses, and fresh in-season vegetables.  You may find that you’re enjoying more flavorful, but smaller portions of meats combined with a healthier proportion of vegetables and spending nearly the same amount on groceries.

“Oven-Grilled” Organic Free-Range Chicken Thighs

4 Free-Range Chicken Thighs
Kosher Salt
Pepper
Caribbean or Southwestern spice rub
Olive Oil

Free range roaster thighs tend to be larger than what you’re used to, because free-range birds actually spend a lot of time walking around.  An average free-range thigh is 6-8 oz. with bone.

Preheat your oven’s broiler on high for at least five minutes.

Rinse your chicken under cold water, rubbing lightly, and blot dry with clean paper toweling.  Rub or brush lightly with olive oil.  Sprinkle with salt and fresh-ground pepper, and rub lightly with spice mixture.

Space evenly on broiler pan and place under direct heat 6-7″ from broiler.  Broil for 20 minutes, turning every five, or until a thermometer in the thickest part of the meat (but not touching the bone) reads 170°F (77°C).  Remove from broiler and let rest uncovered for 3-5 minutes before serving.

Serves 4.  360-480 kcal/serving.

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