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Cold Crop, Warm Heart

Posted: Tuesday, December 2nd, 2008 by Rob

It’s foggy and chilled outside, the end of November, and a steady, cold, drizzling rain is falling.

The lazy days of summer have given way and passed through the gentle days of a Mid-Atlantic October. Now comes the dreary onset of a Maryland winter. Around here, we always have to pass through the damp mid- to late-November rains to get to the cold, crisp clear winter days.

Today’s a day for a comforting, warming meal. Tender greens and light summer flavors are out of season. In cooler climes, this is the time of year most of us should start changing over to the flavors that sustain until warmer days return. Root vegetables, potatoes, brassicas like cauliflower, kale, brocolli, and cabbage. Now’s the time to break out the canned and preserved bounties of our summer gardens. The flavors are changed, but provide a reminder of what to look forward to next year.

I’m going to tell you how to take the humble red cabbage, much-maligned vegetable that it is, and transform it into pure autumn. All you need to do is slice it coarsely, combine it with some diced Granny Smith apple, and pan-braise it in an acidic liquid in order to keep its color. Short cooking times keep it from becoming the red mush we remember from bad childhood meals, and a finish with butter transforms the dish into a glorious representation of fall flavor.

Pan-Braised Red Cabbage with Apples

Ingredients
1 medium head red cabbage
1 Granny Smith Apple
1/2 cup apple juice or cider
2 tbsp. red wine or cider vinegar
3 tbsp butter, softened
salt
pepper
lemon juice (fresh or concentrate)

Prep time: 5-10 minutes. Cooking time: 15-20 minutes.

Remove any wilted outer leaves from the cabbage head. Quarter the cabbage and cut out the hard, white core from each section, leaving the rest intact.

Place the cabbage quarters on a flat side and slice each into about ¼-inch ribbons. You should have about 10-12 cups of cabbage when you’re done. Place into a large bowl and cover with cold water to which you have added a splash or two of lemon juice (to preserve color and crispness).

Core and peel one Granny Smith apple, and cut into a ¼-inch dice. Add apple pieces to the bowl with the cabbage.

Heat a large stainless, non-stick, or anodized skillet over medium-high burner. Add olive oil and coat pan. Drain the cabbage and apples. When oil begins to shimmer on the surface, add the sliced cabbage. Add the apple juice and vinegar, 2-3 healthy pinches of salt, pepper to taste, and cover. When liquid begins to simmer in the pan, reduce heat to medium-low, and continue to cook, covered, for 12-15 minutes.

Uncover, and check seasoning – add salt if necessary. Turn heat back to medium high, and continue cooking, tossing occasionally with tongs, until the thickest parts of the leaves are tender, but still offer firm resistance to the tooth. The liquid should have reduced considerably, leaving just enough to just coat the cabbage.

Remove from heat and toss with butter until melted. Serve with roast pork or fowl. Serves 6. Approximately 116 kcal/serving.

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