It’s foggy and chilled outside, the end of November, and a steady, cold, drizzling rain is falling.

The lazy days of summer have given way and passed through the gentle days of a Mid-Atlantic October.  Now comes the dreary onset of a Maryland winter.  Around here, we always have to pass through the damp mid- to late-November rains to get to the cold, crisp clear winter days.

Today’s a day for a comforting, warming meal.  Tender greens and light summer flavors are out of season.  In cooler climes, this is the time of year most of us should start changing over to the flavors that sustain until warmer days return.  Root vegetables, potatoes, brassicas like cauliflower, kale, brocolli, and cabbage.  Now’s the time to break out the canned and preserved bounties of our summer gardens.  The flavors are changed, but provide a reminder of what to look forward to next year.

I’m going to tell you how to take the humble red cabbage, much-maligned vegetable that it is, and transform it into pure autumn.  All you need to do is slice it coarsely, combine it with some diced Granny Smith apple, and pan-braise it in an acidic liquid in order to keep its color.  Short cooking times keep it from becoming the red mush we remember from bad childhood meals, and a finish with butter transforms the dish into a glorious representation of fall flavor.

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