Archive for August, 2008

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Jean Albrecht 2006 Reserve Riesling

Wednesday, August 13th, 2008

Jean Albrecht 2006 Reserve Riesling

Last time we had Riesling, it was a German vintage from the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer region.  Rieslings from Alsace, France are a different beast.  They retain the fruit, acidity, and floral nose of their German counterparts, but are fermented completely dry, or very nearly so.  The Jean Albrecht 2006 Reserve is a clean, crisp wine that is well suited to summer dining as well as the roasted, toasted flavors of fall.

This wine is as different from the Moselle variety as can be – bracing acidity, big, honeyed aromas, and moderately full body.  If you dislike the sweetness of the German types, Riesling from Alsace may very well be your thing.  They’re under-appreciated wines in the US and, even with the weak dollar, a good value for a wonderfully food-friendly wine.

Details:

Name: Jean Albrecht 2006 Reserve Riesling
Type: White
Country: France
Region: Alsace
Grapes: 100% Riesling
Price: $16

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Diet Progress Monday – August 11th

Monday, August 11th, 2008

Eighteen pounds and counting.

Notables from this week:

  • It’s berry season – we went out and picked a couple pints of blueberries and almost a gallon of ripe blackberries yesterday.  Fruit betties – slightly sweetened fruit baked with a breadcrumb topping – are not bad dessert choices.
  • Long derided by the more snobbish wine drinkers, Italian Pinot Grigio, especially from the Valdadige DOC, is a great summer wine.  Somewhere between the mineral austerity of Sauvignon Blanc and the rich fruit of Chardonnay, it’s a wonderful picnic wine and does an admirable job accompanying light summer foods.
  • It is possible to put together an incredible and satisfying high-end meal with considerable portions and still come in at under 800 calories.  You’ve seen part of this already with the Caprese salad.  More to come.

Link it up:

  • Butler’s Orchard – Farm market, pick-your-own berries (strawberries, blueberries, blackberries, raspberries), cherries, peas, pumpkins, and apples.  Just south of Damascus, MD.
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100-Mile Caprese Salad

Friday, August 8th, 2008

Caprese SaladThe “100 Mile” menu is supposed to be centered around locally produced ingredients.  In my area of the country, the Mid-Atlantic, spring through fall offer plenty of opportunities to take advantage of local farmers’ products.

Here’s an easy one – almost every community has a local or regional dairy, and farmers’ markets explode with fresh herbs and summer vegetables.  The Caprese Salad of tomato, mozzarella cheese, and basil with a vinaigrette dressing is a fantastic starter for a meal or side dish for a picnic.  If your farmers’ market has someone who’s selling a boutique buffalo mozzarella, grab it!

More refined versions of this dish call for olive oil only, and layers of sliced Roma tomato, cheese, and whole basil leaves.  This more rustic version is heartier and packs a bigger flavor wallop.  This salad is vegetarian, but not vegan.

Ingredients:

1 lb. assorted cherry tomatoes (red, orange, yellow, purple varieties)
8 oz. fresh mozzarella cheese (part skim)
10-12 leaves fresh basil
2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
salt
pepper

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Adolph Mueller 2007 Piesporter Michelsberg Riesling Spätlese

Wednesday, August 6th, 2008

Adolph Mueller Piesporter Michelsberg Riesling, 2007, SpätleseRiesling is a fantastic wine for summer.  The German versions are typically a touch sweet (unless labelled “trocken” – dry), balanced with acid tartness, full of fruit, and great chilled.  So, it was with some small anticipation that we opened this Riesling from the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer region.  Spätlese means “late harvest”, and the grapes are left on the vine for a while longer than when they are initially ready for picking.  Usually, this results in a wine with more prominent fruit flavors and body.

Mosel wines are typically characterized by floral, fruity aromas and fall fruit flavors – apples, pears, quince – their lighter body buoyed up by their aromas and tantalizing tartness on the palate.  Beneath the fruit, a mineral component should be present, a clean minerality like a good artesian water.

Unfortunately, this particular wine did not deliver the goods.  While it delivered solid fruit flavors, it lacked in other areas.  Admitedly, at $11 a bottle, this isn’t a top example of the style, but I’ve had $11-12 QbA wines (unclassified vintages) that have provided more classic Riesling profiles than this QmP (Qualitätswein mit Prädikat).

Details:

Name: Adolph Mueller 2007 Piesporter Michelsberg Riesling Spätlese
Country: Germany
Region: Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Piesport
Grapes: 100% Riesling
Price: $11

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Diet Progress Monday – August 4th

Monday, August 4th, 2008

As of this morning, 16 pounds in less than two months.  And, I had a Vietnamese fish hotpot with chili sauce on Friday and two-and-a-half slices of real, thin-crust, spinach-artichoke-roasted pepper pizza on Saturday.  They were both really, really good.

Moderation, folks.  Balance the really good stuff against high-bulk, low-calorie foods.  I eat really tasty things, and still manage to lose weight.  It can be done.

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Spices, the… umm… spice of life.

Friday, August 1st, 2008

Colourful Spices in a French MarketOne of the necessities of eating well is the need for appealing flavors. The American diet is heavily slanted toward basic ideas of what tastes good – sweet, salty, and fatty. Which is why a lot of people (myself included) half-jestingly consider bacon to be the Perfect Food – smoky, salty, fatty, with a bit of sweetness from the sugar in the cure.

However, what we crave is not necessarily nutritionally sound. We crave the salt, sugar, and fat because they are the basic nutritional needs that we require from food. We need salt to maintain heart rhythm, blood chemistry, and electrolyte balance. Sugar gives us instant energy for short-term demands. Fats are premium long-term energy storage – the densest calories we consume. We eat a lot of all of them. They taste good, and for very primal reasons. However, we overeat, especially fatty foods, because we need a certain sensory component to satisfy our appetite. If we take our satisfaction only from the basics, then we tend to require a larger amount of fats, salt and sugar to make us happy, because there are few other elements contributing to the gustatory experience.

Take the lowly potato. Pretty darned bland in and of itself, it’s got just a bit of starchy sweetness. Deep fry it, and sprinkle with salt, and it’s suddenly a tasty treat that’s loaded with sodium and fat – satisfying, but not healthy. Take that same potato, and cook it with other flavors – tomatoes, perhaps, and assertive seasonings – and it becomes a satisfying dish without destroying it nutritionally. As a culinary culture, we need to learn to substitute more intense flavors of spices for sugar, salt and fat’s lowest-common-denominator appeal.

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